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Dreamers Legacy Internet handbook to guide you in the care of your new kitten You have accepted the responsibility of a new companion and family member. To help you with this responsibility, enclosed you will find information that I know will help you in loving, training, caring for, and understanding your new kitten. The Cat is quite unique! Their structure, their curiosity, playful personality and clever personality appeals to many people. Our Kittens have brought us together with people from all over the world. The Bengal Cat is a fulfilling and rewarding companion that will entertain and contribute to your family for many, many years to come. Please do not hesitate to let me help you. I am always available to answer questions, support you, and assist you in any way that I can. Table of Contents * Your New Kitten is Coming Home * Kittens/Cats Feeding & Grooming * Veterinary Care & Selection * Shots & General Health * Litter Boxes Placement, Litter Type & Cleaning * Teaching/Training * Positive Reinforcement * Behavior Modification * Kittens At Play * How should I introduce my new kitten to its new environment? * How should I introduce my new kitten to my other cat? * What type of playing should I expect form a kitten? * Can I discipline a kitten? * When should my kitten be vaccinated? * Why does my kitten need more than one vaccination? * Do all kittens have worms? * How do I insure that my kitten is well socialized? * What are ear mites? * Why should I have my female cat spayed? * Why should I have my male cat neutered? * My kitten is already becoming destructive. What can be done? * Can you recommend something for pet identification? Your New Cat is Coming Home 1) Kitten Room - We suggest that your kitten have a room of his own for the first several days. This should be a place where there is access to food, water, bed, and litter box. If you desire this room to be your bedroom this will also work well. If you are a working family and no one is home during the day, please do not leave the new kitten with the run of the house while you are gone. He will be much happier in his own room until you are home and can be together. Soon he will be fine with the run of the house but avoid the temptation the first week or so. 2) Safety Issues - Make a quick run through of the house to make certain you new kittens cannot escape to the outside world. Check furnace vents, small openings, etc., to make certain there is no way they can crawl into small areas and become lost. Some plants can be harmful to small animals. Please make sure you have removed the plants your kitten can reach until you have checked with your veterinarian to make certain your plants do not fall into this category. If you new kitten in coming to a multiple pet home, please give serious thought about how you intend to introduce everyone. Please be patient and remember there is always a period of adjustment for the old as well as the new pet! 3) Shopping - Necessities: Food, food and water dishes, large kitty litter box, kitty litter, scooper, bottled spring water(1.29 at the grocery store), scratching posts of some type that perhaps can double as a bed. 4) Fun Stuff - A kazillion toys that your cat will probably not give the time of day. Bengal are also entertained and amused with simple household items such as brown paper bags, straws, milk lid rings, cardboard boxes...just to name a few. 5) Veterinarian - Please schedule an appointment with your Veterinarian for the first or second day of your kitten coming home (72 hours in the contract). Before your kitten leaves our home, they will have had their first few vaccinations listed on vaccination page. You will need an appointment for any final shots needed. 6) Travel Schedules & Telephone Numbers Most kittens leave our house between 8 to 12 weeks. If certain events or behaviors show and they need a little more time at home, we will be arranging new travel schedules with you. Confirm arrangements about picking up your new kitten with me so everyone is in agreement of days and times. If your new kitten is flying home, please be certain that you check and double check flight arrangements so we are in agreement of days, airlines, airports, and flight times. We need your telephone numbers( day and evening) and want you to have ours as well. The following information will help serve as a guide for your new family companion. I know that if you have questions you will not hesitate to contact me. (480) 343-6965 Food: Everyone has an opinion about which is the best food for your cat. After talking to several breeders and also from our own experience we feel these foods are superior. At our house, your kitten has been eating Purina One kitten food. When changing to a different food, please remember to do so slowly and mix the food over a 2 week period, slowly eliminating the old food. Cats are sometimes touchy and when stressed fail to eat well. It is very important that your cat not go for more than 48 hours without eating. Their metabolism is quite different from other animals and they can starve quite quickly. If you experience NO EATING problems, do what ever it takes to assist your cat in eating: human baby food (Gerber) lamb/ veal/ chicken/ turkey, canned foods, cooked chicken. Diet is extremely important in the growing months of a kitten's life, and there are two important criteria that should be met in selecting food for your kitten. We recommend a NAME- BRAND FOOD made by a national cat food company (not a generic or local brand), and a form of food made for kittens (PURINA ONE KITTEN FORMULA). This should be fed until your kitten is about 12 months of age. Dry food is definitely the most inexpensive. It can be left in the cat's bowl at all times. If given the choice, the average cat will eat a mouthful of food about 12-20 times per day. As a rule, most veterinarians will recommend dry food for your kitten. Table foods are not recommended, because they are very tasty, cats will often begin to hold out for these and not eat their well-balanced cat food. If you choose to give your kitten table food, be sure that at least 90% of its diet is good quality commercial kitten food. We enjoy a variety of things to eat in our diet. However, most cats actually prefer not to change from one food to another unless they are trained to do so by the way you feed them. Do not feel or feed guilty if your cat is happy to just eat one food keep it that way. Commercials for cat food can be very misleading. If you watch carefully you will notice that commercials promote cat food on one basis: TASTE. Nutrition is rarely mentioned. Most of the "gourmet" foods are marketed to appeal to owners who want the best for their cats; however, they do not offer the cat any nutritional advantage over a good quality dry food, and they are far more expensive. If your cat eats a gourmet food very long, it will probably not be happy with other foods. If it needs a special diet due to a health problem later in life, it is very unlikely to accept it. Therefore, we do not encourage feeding gourmet cat foods. Water: We feel it is important to use bottle water. Water varies from city to city and can cause stomach upset and often loose stools due to Giardia or Cocci levels in the water. Cats like to drink (as well as play in) a good amount of water. To minimize problems and reduce stress, please use bottled water always. Treats: Catnip certainly is a favorite at our place. Try to avoid sharing food items with your kitten around your cooking counter or your dining room table unless you welcome the company on a full time basis. Grooming: Most cats are very low maintenance creatures. They require no routine brushing, however they do remember that petting and brushing are a form of social communication between you and your pet and will certainly strengthen you relationship. Claws & Scratching: We work with our cats to teach them what is and is not appropriate when it comes to the use of their claws. Kittens do learn by example and our mother cats play a great role in teaching them how to use their scratching posts. Cats do need a post of some type, other wise the carpet and your furniture will become their first choice. We recommend the use of a post covered with sisal rope. Sisal rope is the key, the cats love the feel of it on their claws and paws! Try ebay under cat furniture you can get a bran new large cat tree for around $100. total with shipping where as at the local pet stores they can run up to $300. Our kittens climb and scratch on these cat trees starting when they're quite little.
trimmers made for dogs and cats. If you take too much off the nail, you will get into the quick; bleeding and pain will occur. If this happens, neither you nor your cat will want to do this again. Therefore, a few points are helpful: 1) If your cat has clear or white nails, you can see the pink of the quick through the nail. Avoid the pink area, and you should be out of the quick. 2) When cutting nails, use sharp trimmers. Dull trimmers tend to crush the nail and cause pain even if you are not in the quick. 3) You should always have styptic powder available. This is sold in pet stores under several trade names, but it will be labeled for use in trimming nails. More extreme behavior what can be done? There are four options that you should consider: frequent nail clipping, nail shields, surgical de-clawing, and tendonectomy. We feel de-clawing is a choice each owner must make for themselves. 1) Nail trimming: The nails may be clipped according to the instructions above. However, your cat's nails will regrow and become sharp again in about 4-7 days. 2) Caps: There are some commercially available products that are called Soft Paws They are made of smooth plastic and attach to the end of the nail with a special glue. The nails are still present, but the caps prevent them from causing destruction. After 2-4 weeks the nails will grow enough that the caps will be shed. At that time, you should be prepared to replace them. 3) Surgical de-clawing: is the removal of the nail and the first joint of the toe. This is done under general anesthesia; there is a lot of post-surgical discomfort, especially when it is performed on a kitten. It can be done the same time as spaying or neutering. Once de-clawed, your cat should always live indoors since the ability to defend itself is compromised. 4) Tendonectomy: is the surgical removal of a small part of the tendon on the bottom of each toe. This tendon is needed to make the nail extend. The cat retains its nails, but it cannot extend them for sharpening and scratching. The only disadvantage of this procedure is that the nails continue to grow and may grow into the pads. Therefore, the nails should be clipped every 7 to 14 days. Veterinary Care & Selection: Unless you live in a very small city, you should have numerous choices when it comes to selecting a Veterinarian to care for your kitten. Try to find a Vet that really knows the Bengal breed, not all do, and one that has had experience in working with exotic animals is best. Many Vets have clients with exotic cats so it is getting easier to find one that understands our breeds needs and sensitivities. Do not be shy when asking Veterinarians about their experiences and qualifications when it comes to dealing with kitten. Your shot schedule is already in your folder so we will only repeat our strong desire that you vaccinate your cat with killed virus shots only. Litter Boxes: Placement, Litter Type & Cleaning Your new kitten will be 100% litter boxed trained before he is allowed to come home with you ( between 8 -12 weeks of age). Please remember that kittens can become easily confused when adjusting to their new home, different smells, and new family members. Kittens and cats are very structured in their habits and we must all try and make their adjustment to their new home an easy one. 1) Placement: Litter box placement is an important decision ( for everyone's future happiness!) and one that you can make before you bring your kitten home. Continual development of good litter box habits is a must. The less your box is moved around the less potential there will be for accidents. Please try and pick a smaller, easy to find room (main floor bathroom, laundry room, spare room, etc.) for your litter box. Many people desire to place their litter box in the basement which will work fine when your kitten is older and certain of his way around you house. When your kitten arrives, place your litter box in the same room where your kitten has his food and water and where he will be spending a certain amount of his unattended time. Sometimes during their first few days in a new home, kittens that have moved in to larger homes can become preoccupied with playing, snooping, exploring, and can forget how to find the litter box. We know he will eventually have the run of the house and join you as a full time family companion. Try and resist this for the first week until you are certain that the kitten can find his litter box at all times. Kittens are very social companions and if you desire you new kitten to sleep in you bedroom, please make certain you have a second litter box close by. Most kittens while on your bed will think this is their litter box as the feeling of the blankets under foot is like the sand under their little feet while going potty so use restraint when letting them on the bed when they are still really little. 2) Litter Types: There are numerous types of litter that work quite well. When you kitten was little we used a non-clumping type of litter we use regular clay litter only (Special Kitty from Walmart) Please remember that cats are clean and they really do like a clean box! 3) Cleaning: Maintenance of a clean litter now day is quite an easy and fast chore. With you plastic scooper & bags you can easily minimize odors and daily dispose of waste matter. Please purchase an extra large litter box. Cats have to dig and if your desire is to keep the litter in the box... get a cover box with a flap. Two cats can share one extra large box with no problem. Daily litter box cleaning minimizes any odor and will keep your cat happy. Teaching and Training Your Cat Positive Reinforcement: Cats are very intelligent, inquisitive, and can be easily motivated by the use of positive reinforcement. Positive reinforcement can be affection, praise, as well as various types of food rewards. You can teach your cat various names, to come when they are called, to jump, stand on their hind legs, sit, lay down, with patience and rewards. For a food reward we recommend the use of Gerber's Chicken baby food ( this is the only baby food that does not contain onion salt/powder which is harmful to all cats.) Repetition and consistency are the key to successful training. Use your imagination and enjoy this learning time. Behavior Modification: Given a cats abilities, desire to climb, and their innate curiosity, your kitten may exhibit behavior you find objectionable: jumping up on the kitchen counter or dining room table, nosing around antiques and the mantle, sharpening claws on the furniture or carpet, or scratching outside through an open door. These actions may necessitate some type of discipline. Never use your hands to stop negative behaviors. Your hands should be a symbol of affection to your cat and not an object to fear or fight with. We recommend the use of water in a spray bottle. Though some cats like water they dislike being sprayed. When a cat is sprayed with water they immediately stop whatever they are doing and leave the area where the behavior has occurred. The spray must be applied while caught in the act and not before or after. An empty soda can also is very effective, place a few small rocks or marbles in the can and tape up the top shake the can very loud when your kitten is in the middle of their disruptive behavior. Cats are creatures of habit and you will find very little time will be needed to teach them the rules of your household. Cats At Play: You now own one of the most playful, clever, energetic, and entertaining cats around. They enjoy demonstrating their energy and physical abilities. Cats love to role playing, stalking, pursuing, running, climbing, and jumping which are all natural genetic traits that your cat will show you as they are very, very intelligent. They learn quickly and as you introduce them into your family, please remember that how you play with them as tiny kittens will be remembered and they will expect to do the same as adults! We do not play with our kittens using our hands, fingers, or toes. If you place your kitten on his back and gently roll him from side to side, please know that he will respond by embracing your hand with his claws....kicking or biting. Your kitten will continue this behavior with you regardless of his age. What looks cute as a kitten can become quite uncomfortable as your baby grows into an adult Cat. Remember if your saying ouch when their kittens just think what it will be like when they weigh 25 lbs. Do not ever underestimate the power and strength of a Bengal cat! Playtime is a very important bonding time for you and your new baby. Your hands should always be looked at as symbols of affection and not objects to chase and bite. There are so many great toys available to you try one with a stick. Swimming... Jumping... Climbing... Fishing... Fetching: You will notice that your kitten loves to jump and climb! They will always find that high spot in your house. Carpeted climbing and scratching post are such a treat and really are not that hard to make and are everywhere in pet stores. Our cats always seem to have a desire to find water so don't be alarmed if they join you in the shower or the tub. I have had many occasions where I have shared my baths/shower with furry spotted creatures. Cats just seem to love that simple stuff; paper bags, cardboard on a string, or anything with feathers. Playing is an important part of your cats life. Not only are they doing what comes naturally but this daily exercise is vital for a healthy, happy, adult Cat. How should I introduce my new kitten to its new environment? A cat is naturally inclined to investigate its new surroundings. It is suggested that the cat's area of exploration be limited initially so that these natural tendencies do not create an unmanageable task. After confining the cat to one room for the first week, you should slowly allow access to other areas of the home. How should I introduce my new kitten to my other cat? Most kittens receive a hostile reception from other household pets, especially from another cat. The other cat usually see no need for a kitten in the household, and these feelings are reinforced if it perceives that special favoritism is being shown the kitten. The existing cat must not feel that it is necessary to compete for food or for attention. The new kitten should have its own food and food bowl, and it should not be permitted to eat from the other cat's bowl. Although it is natural to spend time holding and cuddling the kitten, the existing cat will quickly sense that it is being neglected. The new kitten needs lots of love and attention, but the existing cat should not be slighted. In fact, the transition will be smoother if the existing cat is given more attention than normal. The introduction period will usually last one to two weeks and will have one of three possible outcomes. 1) The existing cat will remain hostile to the kitten. Fighting may occur occasionally, especially if both try to eat out of the same bowl at the same time. This is an unlikely occurrence if competition for food and affection are minimized during the first few weeks. 2) The existing cat will only tolerate the kitten. Hostility will cease, but the existing cat will act as if the kitten is not present. This is more likely if the existing cat is very independent, has been an only cat for several years, or if marked competition occurred during the first few weeks. This relationship is likely to be permanent. 3) Bonding will occur between the existing cat and the kitten. They will play together, groom each other, and sleep near each other. This is more likely to occur if competition is minimized and if the existing cat has been lonely for companionship. What type of playing should I expect from a kitten? Stimulating play is important during the first week. Stalking and pouncing are important play behaviors in kittens and have an important role in proper muscular development. If given a sufficient outlet for these behaviors with toys, your kitten will be less likely to use family members for these activities. The best toys are lightweight and movable. These include wads of paper, small balls, and string or ribbon on a stick. Kittens should always be supervised when playing with string or ribbons to avoid swallowing them. Any other toy that is small enough to be swallowed should also be avoided. Can I discipline a kitten? Disciplining a young kitten may be necessary if its behavior threatens people or property, but harsh punishment should be avoided. Hand clapping and using shaker cans or horns can be intimidating enough to inhibit undesirable behavior. However, remote punishment is preferred. Remote punishment consists of using something that appears unconnected to the punisher to stop the problem behavior. Examples include using spray bottles, throwing objects in the direction of the kitten to startle (but not hit) it, and making loud noises. Remote punishment is preferred because the kitten associates punishment with the undesirable act and not with you. When should my kitten be vaccinated? There are many diseases that are fatal to cats. Fortunately, we have the ability to prevent many of these by the use of very effective vaccines. In order to be effective, these vaccines must be given as a series of injections. Ideally, they are given at about 8, 12, and 16 weeks of age, but this schedule may vary somewhat depending on several factors. The routine vaccination schedule will protect your kitten from five diseases: distemper, three respiratory organisms, and rabies. The first four are included in a combination vaccine that is given at 8, 12, and 16 weeks old. Rabies vaccine is given at 12 weeks of age. Leukemia vaccine is appropriate for any cat but a necessity if your cat does or will go outside or if you have another cat that goes in and out. This deadly disease is transmitted by contact with other cats, especially when fighting occurs. Why does my kitten need more than one vaccination? When the kitten nurses its mother, it receives a temporary form of immunity through its mother's milk. This immunity is in the form of proteins called antibodies. For about 72 hours after birth, the kitten's intestine allows absorption of these antibodies directly into the blood stream. This immunity is of benefit during the first few weeks of the kitten's life, but, at some point, this immunity fails and the kitten must be able to make its own long-lasting immunity. Vaccinations are used for this purpose. As long as the mother's antibodies are present, vaccinations do not work. The mother's antibodies will neutralize the vaccine so the vaccine does not get a chance to stimulate the kitten's immune system. Many factors determine when the kitten will be able to respond to the vaccines. These include the level of immunity in the mother cat, how much of the antibody has been absorbed, and the number of vaccines given the kitten. Since we do not know when an individual kitten will lose the short-term immunity, we give a series of vaccinations. We hope that at least two of these will fall in the window of time when the kitten has lost the immunity from its mother but has not yet been exposed to disease. A single vaccination, even if effective, is not likely to stimulate the long-term immunity which is so important. Rabies vaccine is an exception to this, since one injection given at the proper time is enough to produce long-term immunity. Do all kittens have internal parasites? Intestinal parasites are common in kittens. Kittens are born infected with parasites for example, the most important source of roundworm infection in kittens is the mother's milk. The microscopic examination of a stool sample will usually help us to determine the presence of intestinal parasites. We exam |